Annapurna Circuit Trek: Our Day-to-Day Itinerary and Costs

The almost 300-kilometers Annapurna Circuit is challenging but rewarding trek. In 23-days, we trekked all the way from Besi Sahar to Landruck without a guide or porter or any tour agency. On average, we walked about 6-8 hours, crossing 4 different districts namely: Lamjung, Manang, Mustang and Myagdi, and experienced 4 different seasons covering a great sparse of geography. We got to witness people of varying tribes and ethnicity which differ along the trail in every 30km. 

A summary of our day-by-day route: 19April – 12May

Besi Sahar – Ngadi – Jagat – Bagarchhap – Chame – Upper Pisang – Manang – Acclimatization in Manang – Seeri Khadka – Tilicho Base Camp – Tilicho Lake – Seeri Khadka – Ledar – Thorong High Camp – Muktinath – Marpha – Kalopani – Tatopani – Ghorepani – one more day in Ghorepani – Gurjung – Dovan – Annapurna Base Camp – Chhomrong – Pokhara

Basically our only expenses in the mountains are accommodation, food and drinking water. Here’s a rough breakdown on how much both of us spent over the 23-days trek:

Accommodation: ~4,000 NPR (USD37)

Food: ~55,670 NPR (USD520)

Drinking Water: ~545 NPR (USD5)

Most of the days, we managed to bargain for free accommodation in exchange for having meals (dinner and breakfast) with the hosts, thus our budget were heavily spent more on food. 

So, let’s get started!

Day 1: Kathmandu – Besi Sahar (820m) – Bhulbhule – Ngadi (890m)

We took a 6a.m bus from Kathmandu’s Gongabu Bus Park to Besi Sahar (350 NPR/pax) where the trek officially begins. The bus ride is supposed to be 6-hours but ended up the whole journey took us 8-hours. 

We did our first check-in at TIMS check post in Besi Sahar! 

Since it was only mid-noon, we decided to start trekking instead of staying at Besi Sahar like most other trekkers. We managed to end our day before sunset after 3.5-hours of 12km walk to Ngadi.

First suspension bridge of the trek!

ACAP Check post at Simpani

Friendly Nepalese!

Our humble meal

Accommodation: Hil-ton Guesthouse & Restaurant (Free!)

Dinner area

Bedroom for 2  

Expenditures Breakdown:

Lunch:

  • Dal Baht: 300 NPR

Dinner:

  • Potato Momo: 250 NPR
  • Egg Fried Rice: 450 NPR
  • Small pot of tea: 240 NPR

Day 2: Ngadi (890m) – Bahundanda – Ghermu – Jagat (1,300m)

We learned to order breakfast after dinner and gave specific timing for the meal to be served. If not, be prepared to wait about 30-45 minutes as Nepalese prepare their meals from scratch. We started our trek by 8.30 a.m and the weather was already getting hot. 

It took us 2-hours to walk from Ngadi to Bahundanda (6.2km). We sweat a lot from climbing up the ridge and stairs to 1,310m. I spent 150 NPR for a bottle of coke (70 NPR in Kathmandu) as I needed to use the toilet urgently. 

Bahundanda’s Gate

View from Bahundanda before descending to flat paddy fields leading to Ghermu which is 5km away.

At the last lodge in Ghermu, the rainbow lodge, you got a choice to walk the upper trail (ascending path but beautiful) or lower trail (flat road but dusty) to Jagat. We chose the shorter trail (red & white) which took us 3-hours to cover 5km of road.

Accommodation: Tilicho Guesthouse (Free!)

Easily be seen ’cause of its bright colors

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Oat Porridge: 250 NPR
  • Omelette: 250 NPR
  • Big pot of Hot water: 240 NPR

1 x bottle of coke: 150 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Dal Baht: 450 NPR
  • Veg Fried Potato: 350 NPR
  • Small pot of Hot Lemon: 350 NPR

Day 3: Jagat (1,300m) – Chamje – Tal – Dharapani – Bagarchhap (2,140m)

Today’s trek started with a 1.5-hours trek to Chamje where you will pass by a teahouse facing the waterfall.

There is an ascend about 130m before reaching Chamje village, where you will see a sign leading to Tal.

Chamje – Tal: 5km, 3.5hrs

Tal definitely has my heart!

Tal is also the first village on the trail where you can find safe water!

Instead of getting a new bottle for Rs100, safe water only costs Rs40

It is a 6.6km walk from Tal to Dharapani which took us 3.5-hours. 

AWWWWWWWWWWWWW~~~

The trekking trail ends here so we have to cross the bridge to the road side

There is a check post in Dharapani.

We continue another 3km to Bagarchhap and didn’t regret at all.

View from our room

Accommodation: Eco Holiday (Free!)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Apple Porridge: 300 NPR
  • Banana Muesli: 300 NPR
  • Small pot of Hot water: 150 NPR

2 x Safe Water: 80 NPR

Lunch:

  • Mushroom Soup: 260 NPR
  • Bottle of coke: 205 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Dal Baht: 470 NPR
  • Omelette: 230 NPR
  • Potato Soup: 280 NPR
  • Milk Tea: 80 NPR

Day 4: Bagarchhap (2,140m) – Danaqyu – Timang – Thanchowk – Koto – Chame (2,670m)

From Bagarchhap to Danaqyu is only a 20-minutes walk (1.7km), but after that is a 2-hours with 350m steep climb to Timang. 

Safe water station at Danaqyu

Steep climb includes fighting your way with gazing cows

Timang: 2,350m

About 1-hour away (3.4km) from Timang, we passed by Thanchowk, an old village where there are two ways to reach Chame: trekking or road trail. Both path take about 2-hours.

Pretty Sakura-look-alike tree

Check post at Koto

Chame is a big bazaar compared to other villages. You can stock up snacks and medicines, or get new gears. We stayed at the end of the village opposite the bridge where it’s much quieter. 

There are many lodges here!

Safe water station: Rs45 for 1-litre bottle

Pharmacy with a wide variety medicines available

Accommodation: New Tibet Hotel & Restaurant (Free!)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Apple Porridge: 330 NPR
  • Fried Potato: 300 NPR
  • Hot water x 2: 100 NPR

Lunch:

  • Veg Momo: 350 NPR
  • Bottle of coke: 250 NPR

2 x Safe Water: 90 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Dal Baht: 550 NPR
  • Egg Curry: 450 NPR
  • Hot Lemon x 2: 180 NPR
  • Local Wine: 100 NPR

Day 5: Chame (2,670m) – Bhratang – Dhukur Pokhari – Upper Pisang (3,300m)

It was an easy forest trail from Chame to Bhratang. 

Chame – Bhratang: 6.3km, 1.5hrs trek

Bhratang: 2,800m

There’s a choice of taking the upper or lower Pisang trail. Lower runs along the road and is much easier, while upper involves a steep 600 meter gain but is good for acclimating and is the more beautiful trek by far, offering magnificent views of the Annapurna peaks. 

Accommodation: Himalayan Hotel & Restaurant (Free!)

We stayed at the highest lodge in Upper Pisang.

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Boiled Potatoes: 300 NPR
  • Muesli with apples & milk: 300 NPR
  • Black Tea: 50 NPR
  • Hot water: 45 NPR

Chocolate Donut: 200 NPR

Lunch:

  • Onion Soup: 250 NPR
  • Masala Tea: 200 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Dal Baht: 550 NPR
  • Egg Noodle Soup: 380 NPR
  • Hot Lemon x 2: 180 NPR

Day 6: Upper Pisang (3,300m) – Ghyaru – Ngawal – Manang (3,540m)

Today is a long trek of 20-kilometers!

After the suspension bridge, it’s a steep ascend to Ghyaru

A great view comes after a tough climb!

There are a few side trips to do on the way to Manang. 

From Ngawal to Manang is a relatively flat trail of 9.2km.

Accommodation: Hotel Himalayan Singi (Free!)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Chocolate Pancake: 350 NPR
  • Pancake with Honey: 350 NPR
  • Small pot of Hot water: 200 NPR

Lunch:

  • Chicken Fried Noodle: 450 NPR
  • Veg Noodle Soup: 380 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Chicken Noodle Soup x 2: 760 NPR
  • Hot Lemon: 90 NPR
  • Apple Tea: 90 NPR

Day 7: Acclimatization in Manang

This was a rest day in Manang to acclimate to the altitude. This is highly recommended as many people really start to feel the altitude by this point. We slept in, did a short side trek up to Gangapurna Glacier Viewpoint and had a feast!

Alternative, you can just chill and maybe catch a movie!

There is also a free lecture everyday at 3pm at Manang’s clinic conducted by volunteered-doctors. 

Accommodation: Hotel Himalayan Singi (Free!)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • French Toast: 290 NPR
  • Cheese Toast: 260 NPR
  • Hot water x 2: 80 NPR

Lunch:

  • Honey Hot Lemon: 120 NPR
  • Seabuckthorn Juice: 120 NPR
  • Tuna Fried Rice: 400 NPR
  • Egg Burger: 550 NPR
  • Rosti: 300 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Chicken Noodle Soup: 380 NPR
  • Minestrone Soup: 370 NPR

Day 8: Manang – Gunsang – Sheree Kharka (4,076m)

Today was our worst day on trail because we got so lost!

Our planned route was supposed to be Manang – Khangsar – Sheree Kharka – Tilicho Base Camp. But instead, we made a wrong turn at Manang, and went all the way to further Gunsang before realizing we were on wrong trail. We managed to be back on track to Sheree Kharka, but it was on a trail of super steep ascend.  

This exit leads to Gunsang instead of Khangsar

Goodbye Manang

Gunsang: 3,990m

So, we were to cross the bridge and ascend the trail where everyone is heading down

It took us almost 5-hours on this trail to reach Sheree Kharka. If we were to choose again, we would choose to walk back to Manang, stay another night there and start the correct trail to Khangsar.

Accommodation: Hotel Tilicho Peak & Restaurant (Free!)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Muesli with Milk: 300 NPR
  • Potato Soup: 300 NPR
  • Small pot of Hot water: 250 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Chicken Noodle Soup: 355 NPR
  • Tomato Noodle Soup: 355 NPR
  • Hot Lemon: 100 NPR

Day 9: Sheree Kharka (4,076m) – Tilicho Base Camp (4,150m)

This trail is probably the most dangerous part due to narrow steep path and common rocks fall/landslide. We had trekkers telling us they are going to give a miss to Tilicho Lake as “it is dangerous to cross”.  It is highly recommended to do this trail early morning as chances of rocks falling is higher when got heated up by the sun.

Also, we deposited our backpack at the lodge in Sheree Kharka and only brought what is needed for the night. Yes, you don’t need to carry your full load since you will have to pass by Sheree Kharka anyways.

Landslide area

Steep slope down on rocky sands

Nevertheless, the view is breathtaking

It took us about 2-hours to trek this 4.5km trail.

Accommodation: New Tilicho Base Camp & Restaurant (Free!)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Plain Omelette: 295 NPR
  • Fried Rice: 340 NPR
  • Hot water x 2: 100 NPR

Lunch:

  • Fried Rice: 365 NPR
  • Hot Lemon x 2: 220 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Fried Potato: 400 NPR
  • Fried Noodles: 475 NPR
  • Hot Lemon x 2: 220 NPR

Day 10: Tilicho Base Camp (4,150m) – Tilicho Lake (4,919m) – Sheree Kharka (4,076m)

We started our trek before 6 a.m knowing that it’s gonna be a tough 800-meters ascend. 

The trail starts right behind the lodge

Rise & Shine!

It was a gradual ascend till we came across a steep zig-zag climb

When we reached on top…..

Still not there yet!

and so we just kept walking…on snow!

There are many small lakes along the way which looks beautiful

And finally the lake which is still frozen

We both had slight headaches from the altitude so we only stayed about 30-minutes for photos and chatted with another pair of trekkers. We descended back on the same route for 2-hours, took a quick bite and a short nap, and continued back down to Sheree Kharka for overnight.

Expenditures Breakdown:

Lunch:

  • Fried Potato: 400 NPR
  • Hot Lemon x 2: 220 NPR

Dinner: 

  • French Fries: 420 NPR
  • Veg Soup: 325 NPR
  • Hot Lemon x 2: 220 NPR

Day 11: Sheree Kharka (4,076m) – Yak Kharka – Churi Ledar (4,200m)

We trekked in the snow today!

We descended by the same route we had ascended on Day 9. It was definitely much more easier and only took us 2-hours back to the point where we can continue to Yak Kharka. 

I can’t really tell you where to find this rock, but if you are on the right track, you will definitely see it

It was a 2-hours up and down trail to Yak Kharka followed by a 40-minutes gradual ascend of 200m.

There are about 5 lodges at Yak Kharka (4,035m)

It started snowing when we left the Yak Kharka, but we decided to continue walking to Churi Ledar

Opposite the bridge is Churi Ledar!

If you do not have any problems with altitude related symptoms, we recommend to stay over at Churi Ledar (4,200m) as it makes it easier to go on Thorong High Camp (4,850m) the next day. If you stay in Yak Kharka (4,035m), it is recommended to stop in Thorong Phedi (4,450m) for overnight instead. 

Accommodation: Hotel New Phedi (Free!)

There are only 2 lodges in Churi Ledar. We chose the one at the furthest.

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Veg Soup: 320 NPR
  • Potato Soup: 300 NPR
  • Hot water x 2: 100 NPR

Lunch:

  • Fried Rice: 300 NPR
  • Potato Soup: 300 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Egg Fried Rice: 370 NPR
  • Veg Soup: 310 NPR
  • Apple Fritters: 390 NPR
  • Hot water x 2: 90 NPR

Day 12: Churi Ledar (4,200m) – Thorong Phedi – Thorong High Camp (4,850m)

We are getting closer to Thorong-la pass!

From Churi Ledar to Thorong Phedi is not an easy trail. Not only that you have to overcome the climb with this high altitude, there is a “danger zone” of frequent falling rocks which you need to be cautioned too!

Snow from last night at Churi Ledar

There are two options to cross the river: via the suspension bridge, or continued the main trail to descend till you saw a wooden bridge. The latter option is more dangerous with falling rocks and will end up with a steep climb up the slope.

After passing two tea houses, the “danger zone” starts.

Shortly after the end of “danger zone” (about 20-minutes), the lodges in Thorong Phedi (4,550m) come in view.

From Thorong Phedi to Thorong High Camp is a hard climb!

High Camp is right above those mountains!

Halfway up to High Camp

Accommodation: Thorong High Camp & Restaurant (500 NPR/Room/Night)

The lodges in High Camp are owned by one landlord, thus there’s no way to get free room here. Behind the lodge is a long steep ridge with an awesome view at the top. 

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Noodle Soup x 2: 640 NPR
  • Hot water x 2: 100 NPR

Lunch:

  • Baked Macaroni Tuna : 740 NPR
  • Hot Lemon: 100 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Margarita Pizza : 630 NPR
  • Potato Soup: 330 NPR

Day 13: Thorong High Camp (4,850m) – Thorong-la Pass (5,416m) – Muktinath (3,800m)

Today is the day!

We only started our trek at 6 a.m. whereas most trekkers probably started as early as 4 a.m., making us the last few to ascend. It took us almost 4-hours to complete this cold and breathless trail. Along the way, there are only 2 tea houses: one at around 5,000m and another one at Thorong -la pass. 

After suspension bridge is a steep ridge up to the snowy mountain

The rest of the trail is walking on icy slope

The poles are indicators you are on right direction

And this is the moment we had been trekking for!

We spent almost an hour at Thorong-la pass talking to the Gurkha who was tending the tea house for this season. 

The descend to Muktinath is long and exhausting. There are no lodges nor tea houses along the way so do save up some snacks for the descend journey as well. It took us another 3.5-hours before we can finally rest.

On the left side is Muktinath, on the right is Ranipauwa

Similar to Manang, there are a few side trails to explore. We wish to have more time in Muktinath but we still have ABC to do.

Accommodation: Dream Home (800 NPR/Room/Night)

Dream Home is the last lodge in Muktinath, across the bus station. It is run by a Kyrgyzstan lady who cooks delicious Russian food!

From the rooftop

Expenditures Breakdown:

Lunch:

  • Salo (Pork) : 370 NPR
  • Chicken Burger: 400 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Golubtsy: 460 NPR
  • Mac & Cheese: 280 NPR
  • 1 pot Hot Lemon: 100 NPR

Day 14: Muktinath (3,800m) – Kagbeni – Jomsom – Marpha (2,670m)

Our plan for today was to take a bus from Muktinath to Jomsom for overnight. Simple and easy day, supposedly. 

There was a bus strike so no public bus will be running for today, and maybe the next day. Walking from Muktinath to Jomsom would be a 6-hours over 18-kilometers of dirt road.

We were lucky to get a hitchhike from Khinga to Kagbeni!

Overlooking Jharkot Village from the road

Kagbeni: 2,800m

We trekked about an hour to Old Kagbeni and was once again lucky to get another hitchhike to Jomsom by an Indian family!

Windy and dusty

It wasn’t a bad day after all

Jomsom was not what we expected at all, probably because we were here at the wrong season. It was quiet like a ghost town, super windy and super dusty! We can’t really find a proper place to eat as most places were closed due to the strong wind. 

So, we decided to continue walking to the next village, not knowing what to expect either.

There are 2 ways to Marpha: by road or by trail. By trail will take longer time and we quite enough of walking up and down, so we chose the flat dusty road instead.

After two hours of braving against the strong wind and dust, Marpha is a sanctuary. The moment we entered through the gate, the howling of the wind stopped! All houses are painted with bright white color and the lanes are paved with spotless clean stone plates. And it’s a sin not to try apple products while in Marpha!


Accommodation: Paradise Guest House (300 NPR/Room/Night)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Tuna Sandwich: 300 NPR
  • Pancake with Honey: 380 NPR

Lunch:

  • Tomato Egg Sandwich : 325 NPR
  • Apple Juice: 150 NPR
  • Apple Lassi: 200 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Fried Rice: 300 NPR
  • Egg Burger: 400 NPR
  • Apple Juice: 120 NPR
  • Apple Cider: 130 NPR
  • Apricot Brandy: 80 NPR

Day 15: Marpha (2,670m) – Sauru – Kalopani (2,480m)

This is a long walk of 20-kilometers! This time we avoided main road and passed through a few beautiful villages along the trail. 

We skipped Tukuche and continued the trail to Chokhopani where we cut through an army training ground.

After Sauru, the trail to Kalopani is not marked with white&red but you can still easily follow the walking path.

Chokhopani – Sauru – Sirkung – Kokhethanti – Kalopani: 5.5-hours

A ladder was placed there to avoid walking on river

Passing through Sirkung

View through the trees

A few side treks from Kokhethanti

And finally arrived in Kalopani

Accommodation: See You Lodge (300 NPR/Room/Night)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Chapati: 70 NPR
  • Onion Omelette: 180 NPR
  • Organic Coffee: 100 NPR
  • Apricot Juice: 100 NPR

Lunch:

  • A bottle of Coke : 160 NPR
  • Meat Momo: 400 NPR
  • Egg Fried Rice: 300 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Veg Noodle Soup: 245 NPR
  • Dal Baht: 475 NPR
  • French Fries: 295 NPR
  • Hot Chocolate: 95 NPR
  • Sea Buckthorn Tea: 80 NPR

Day 16: Kalopani (2,480m) – Tatopani (1,220m)

It’s a cheat day!

We hired a jeep for 300 NPR per person and had a rough roller coaster ride due to the harsh road condition. Under a good road condition, this 23-kilometers journey would have been less than 1-hour. Because this is in Nepal, the travelling time became 6-hours! If we chose to walk instead, it will take us 8-hours. 

We actually “psycho” her to share the jeep with us

Shortly after we left the village, the driver stopped and told us “construction ahead”

The locals started singing & dancing till we can get back on road

So, there’s always a reason for buses and jeeps to stop. 

Good luck to these dudes!

Tatopani is famous for its natural hot spring! 

Tatopani

Seems like they are going to expand the hot spring

Accommodation: Namaste Lodge & Restaurant (100 NPR/Room/Night)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Tuna Sandwich: 495 NPR
  • Cheese Egg Rosti: 395 NPR
  • Hot Lemon x 2: 160 NPR

Lunch:

  • Egg Spring Roll : 299 NPR
  • Chicken Butter with Rice: 390 NPR
  • Apple Juice: 170 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Tuna Lasagna: 370 NPR
  • Special Dal Baht: 400 NPR
  • Hot Lemon: 50 NPR
  • Milk Coffee: 95 NPR

Day 17: Tatopani (1,220m) – Sikha – Chitre – Ghorepani (2,750m)

Back to ascending! 

This part of the trail is sunnier and much more humid, but there’s also more greenery to see.

From Chitre (1,542m) to Ghorepani (2,750m), is a continuously ascend of steps!

Just as we thought we had arrived at Ghorepani…….

There are more steps to climb!!!!

Accommodation: Annapurna View Lodge & Resturant (400 NPR/Room/Night)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Tibetan Bread: 180 NPR
  • Lemon Sugar Pancake: 200 NPR
  • Milk Coffee: 95 NPR
  • Nana Tea: 60 NPR

Lunch:

  • Cold Lemon Squash x 2: 160 NPR
  • Tomato Onion Fried Potato: 380 NPR
  • Egg Fried Rice: 350 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Egg Noodle Soup: 250 NPR
  • Veg Egg Fried Noodle: 430 NPR
  • Hot Lemon x 2: 180 NPR
  • Raksi: 100 NPR

Day 18: Poon Hill Trek

Today is our rest day before heading up to Annapurna Base camp!

Instead of catching sunrise like all other trekkers, we slept in and slowly made our way to Poon Hill. 

There’s a small entrance fee if you come up for sunrise

40-minutes up on nicely paved steps

We are the only humans up here!

Lucky to be in time for clear sky

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Western Breakfast: 570 NPR
  • Veg Egg Fried Rice: 380 NPR
  • Poon Hill Coffee: 250 NPR
  • Milk Coffee: 120 NPR

Lunch:

  • Potato Soup: 220 NPR
  • Garlic Soup: 220 NPR
  • Tibetan Bread: 200 NPR
  • Black Tea: 60 NPR
  • Hot Lemon: 90 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Potato Soup: 220 NPR
  • Veg Egg Noodle: 430 NPR
  • Mac & Cheese: 450 NPR
  • Chips with Eggs: 400 NPR

Day 19: Ghorepani (2,750m) – Tadapani – Chuile – Ghurjung (2,258m)

Good breakfast to start the day!

Her food are so yummy we ate so much during our stay

The trek wasn’t hard, just a lot, a lot, a lot of steps.

And we came across this magical place with lots of stacking stones!

Most part of the trail was trekking through the forest. 

Accommodation: Ghurjung Lodge & Restaurant (100 NPR/Room/Night)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Tibetan Bread: 200 NPR
  • Fried Potato: 350 NPR
  • Boiled Eggs x 2: 150 NPR
  • Hot Lemon: 90 NPR
  • Black Tea: 60 NPR

Lunch:

  • Noodle Soup: 300 NPR
  • Fried Noodle: 360 NPR
  • Hot Water x 2: 60 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Egg Veg Noodle Soup: 250 NPR
  • Tomato Noodle Soup: 250 NPR
  • Hot Lemon: 80 NPR
  • Hot Chocolate: 90 NPR

Day 20: Ghurjung (2,258m) – Chhomrong – Sinuwa – Bamboo – Dovan (2,870m)

Annapurna Base Camp is one of the most popular trek in the World. Starting from Chhomrong, the trail is pretty much well marked and maintained. There’s only one way to and fro the base camp. Since we had acclimatized from Thorong-la pass and feeling much stronger than before, we used 2-days to ascend and 1-day to descend back to Chhomrong. 

There are limited lodges in each village. You may get a list of phone numbers from check point in Chhomrong

Instead of buying snacks from lodges which charge higher, you may stock up at this wholesale shop just below the town

It is not possible to get lost doing Annapurna Sanctuary Trek by yourself

It’s a hell lots of steps to go down, cross the bridge, and up again

No meat on sanctuary trek!

Accommodation: Tip Top Lodge & Restaurant (400 NPR/Room/Night)

There are only 3 lodges in Dovan. On top of paying for the room, there’s additional charge for hot shower (150 NPR), Wifi (300 NPR) and charging gadgets (200 NPR).

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Banana Pancake: 280 NPR
  • Gurung Bread with Egg: 380 NPR
  • Milk Coffee: 100 NPR
  • Hot Lemon: 80 NPR

Lunch:

  • Egg Veg Fried Rice: 390 NPR
  • Egg Veg Fried Noodle: 460 NPR
  • Ice Lemon x 2: 200 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Egg Veg Noodle Soup: 370 NPR
  • Egg Veg Fried Rice: 440 NPR
  • Hot Chocolate: 100 NPR
  • Hot Lemon: 90 NPR

Day 21: Dovan (2,870m) – Himalaya – Deurali – MBC – ABC (3,700m)

The journey up to ABC continues……most trekkers either stopped at Deurali or MBC (Machapuchare Base Camp) for overnight and head up to ABC next morning as a day trip. We strongly encouraged to stay at ABC for stargazing and for the awesome sunrise!

A make-shift bridge to cross the stream

AKA Fishtail Mountain, this is a forbidden place where no one ever set foot on!

When hot air rises…

Finally arrived at ABC!!!

Stargazing

Accommodation: Annapurna Sanctuary Lodge & Restaurant (400 NPR/Room/Night)

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Gurung Bread with Cheese: 350 NPR
  • Muesli with Hot Milk: 360 NPR
  • Lemon Tea: 90 NPR
  • Hot Water: 60 NPR

Lunch:

  • Hot Water x 2: 120 NPR
  • Fried Rice: 450 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Cold Lemon x 2: 200 NPR
  • Hot Water x 2: 140 NPR
  • Mac & Cheese: 590 NPR
  • Korean Shin Noodle: 570 NPR

Day 22: ABC (3,700m) – Chhomorong (2,170m)

Sunrise!

This, we gonna miss….

From ABC, we trekked all the way down to Chhomrong! It was a super long day and whereas we are descending, the last part to Chhomrong is basically steps all the way up to another mountain. 

Accommodation: New Chhomrong Guest House (300 NPR/Room/Night)

This guesthouse is just next to ACAP check post in Chhomrong. We had a nice deal of 300 NPR for both of us inclusive of hot water and wifi.

Expenditures Breakdown:

Breakfast:

  • Hot Water x 2: 140 NPR
  • Egg Veg Noodle Soup: 480NPR

Lunch:

  • Milk Coffee: 100 NPR
  • Lemon Tea: 90 NPR
  • Egg Veg Fried Rice: 440 NPR
  • Veg Soup: 270 NPR

Dinner: 

  • Hot Lemon Tea: 60 NPR
  • Hot Chocolate: 80 NPR
  • Chicken Burger: 700 NPR

Day 23: Chhomorong (2,170m) – Jhinu – New Bridge – Landruck – Pokhara

It is about 3-4 hours trek to Landruck where you can get a jeep back to Pokhara. The jeep ride is 1000 NPR per person and definitely not a comfortable ride…. 

This is before another 10 people came in and squeeze the bumpy ride with us

Not sure where to start? Check out my other post to get yourself prepared for the trek!

Colmar Tropicale: Medieval French Village in Malaysia

Colmar Tropicale is a highland resort inspired by the 16th century village in Alsace region of France, famously known as one of the fairy-tale villages in Europe. Located 2,700-feet (more than 800-meters) above sea level in Berjaya Hills in Pahang, Colmar Tropicale is undoubtedly one of the popular attractions to visit in Malaysia.

Entry Fee: RM15 (USD4)

Adjacent to the entrance of Colmar Tropicale is the Le Chateau (Spa and Organic Wellness) which is also inspired by a castle in Alsace. The beautifully crafted fountain with cranes (behind us!) is an official gift from Alsace, France.

A medieval French village in the middle of a Malaysian rainforest, the entrance to Colmar Tropicale features a castle’s wooden drawbridge which leads you through an intricate cuckoo clock tower which was inspired by France’s Riquewihr Tower into massive cobblestone courtyard.

No need to fly far for an European backdrop

On the way to find Rapunzel!

Surrounded by the greens

Views are always better from the top

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to explore the Japanese Village and Adventure Park…So, till next time!

Getting There

Colmar Tropicale is just a 45-minutes drive from Kuala Lumpur city centre. Alternatively, if you have no intention to drive or hire a private car/taxi, Berjaya Group provides daily shuttle bus services that run daily from Berjaya Times Square, Kuala Lumpur to Colmar Tropicale, Berjaya Hills at the scheduled timing. A return trip with entrance fee will cost RM60 (USD15).

7 amusing things to do in Da Nang, Vietnam

Da Nang is Vietnam’s third largest city, after Hanoi and Saigon and the largest city of Central Vietnam. The city itself has neither the atmosphere of Hanoi nor the hustle-bustle of Saigon, but has its share of sights and is close to the ancient town of charming Hoi An and the imperial capital of Hue. Da Nang is probably one of those incredible backpacking destinations that is unfortunately skipped by so many travelers aiming for the main destinations like Sapa and Ha Long Bay.

We took a yellow-colored local Bus #1 from Hoi An to Da Nang. The fare is 20,000VND (as of Dec 2017). They will most likely ask for more if you are a foreigner but keep smiling and continue offering the 20,000 – don’t let your frustration show nor raise your voice and eventually they should give in. Note that Bus #1 only runs between 0530 and 1730.

#1 Chill at Hipster Cafes…or just along the road stalls

Da Nang is a perfect hub to experience modern Vietnam. It gives you an idea where the country stands and where it is heading. It’s more authentic than bustling Saigon, and less rough than the capital of Hanoi. You can easily find gorgeous-themed cafes in city centre or traditional low chairs stalls along the riverside. Either way, it’s a nice way to chill like a local in Da Nang.

Egg coffee and lemon tart

Coconut jelly

Coconut coffee

#2 Relaxing at My Khe Beach

During the Vietnam War, this beach used to be a chill and relax location for the American Army. Today, it is an ideal place for surfing, relax on the beach, enjoy the sun and clean sand. 

#3 Enjoy Cool Climate at Ba Na Hills

Enjoy four seasons within a single day: spring in the morning, like summer by noon, autumn by the afternoon and winter in the evening! With refreshingly cool weather and gorgeous countryside views, Ba Na Hills is a real treasure of Da Nang.

Take the longest cable car ride in the world!

A totally different climate from the city below

#4 Summit the Marble Mountains 

Located on the south of Danang, the Marble Mountains (Ngũ Hành Sơn) is a cluster of five limestone and marble mountains which are named after the 5 elements: Kim (metal), Moc (wood), Thuy (water), Hoa (fire), Tho (land). Over the centuries the Marble Mountains were used as a safe haven for soldiers and a place of worship for Buddhists. For years the hills were mined for their valuable stone, although that has been recently banned. You can see examples of intricate stonework along the roadside workshops from the bus stop to the entrance of Marble Mountains.

The Marble Mountains is located along between Da Nang and Hoi An, thus you can take Yellow local Bus #1 to get there.

40,000VND (<USD2) for entrance fee

Additional cost if you wanna take the elevator

150-steps!

#5 Discover Da Nang Cathedral a.k.a Rooster Church

Da Nang Cathedral was built by French priest Louis Vallet in 1923, with a pink-painted edifice that earns its reputation as one of the most unique catholic churches in Vietnam. Standing at 70-meters, it’s also known as Con Ga Church (Rooster Church) due to the imposing bell tower that’s topped with a rooster weather vane.

#6 Sleep in Unique Hostels

We stayed in two different hostels in Da Nang.

PACKO Hostel is a container inn with 16 colorful rooms, 5-minutes walk to My Khe Beach. There are 4 types of rooms, with room rates from VND180,000/person. Bedrooms have wooden floors and bunk beds. The toilets are very clean and fully equipped.

The Memory Hostel is located in the heart of the city, 800 meters from the Han River. The entire building is paved with refined bricks with attractive earthy colors and unique vintage touch.

#7 Catch Fire-Spitting Dragon Show

Dragon Bridge in Da Nang is the longest bridge in Vietnam, offering a dazzling display of lights, fire, and water that no first-time visitor to Da Nang should miss out on. Measuring at 666 metres in length, it is located in Da Nang City and constructed in the shape of a golden dragon.

Every weekends evening at 9 p.m, there will be a fire and water spiting performance at the head of the Dragon Bridge. It’s nothing fantastic but the place will be filled up with locals and foreigners. 

Ba Na Hills: A French Village in Da Nang, Vietnam

Located 25 km southwest of Da Nang at an altitude of 1,487m, Ba Na Hills are considered as “One temperate place in the tropical forest” because the climate is cool all the year round and you can enjoy four seasons within a single day: spring in the morning, like summer by noon, autumn by the afternoon and winter in the evening! With refreshingly cool weather and gorgeous countryside views, Ba Na Hills is a real treasure of Da Nang.

Source: justgola

How to get there?

Unfortunately for backpackers, there is no public buses to Ba Na Hills. Either, you can get a taxi to Ba Na Hills for 600 000 VND (USD26) round trip, or you can go by signing up for a Ba Na Hills tour. Alternatively, you may rent a bike from hostel (USD5 for 24-hours) and it’s about an hour drive. However, we only recommend this option for confident riders as you may pass by bumpy roads and with big trucks. 

Always happy to be your pillion

Beautiful scenery along the way

Nicely paced road once you reached the property of Sun World

Free sheltered-parking space for bikes

Security card for the bike

How much is the ticket?

The price to enter Ba Na Hills includes the ticket for all cable cars and theme park entrance ticket.

  • Adult: 650,000 VND (USD29)
  • Children ( 1m – 1.3 meters): 550 000 VND 

Luckily there wasn’t any long queues

This ticket price does not include the price for Wax Museum (100,000 VND/ adult, and free for kids), as well as food and beverage. You can read more about the ticket price here.

Grand entrance to take the cable car

Ba Na Cable Car

Apart from the cooling climate and its french architectures, Ba Na cable cars hold two Guinness World Records: the world’s longest single cable car system (5,042.62 m long) and the world’s highest gap between its departure and arrival station (1,291.81 m)! It was an amazing feeling on a cable car cabin floating over an ancient rainforest, hovering over boulders and waterfalls. 

When it’s so great to travel off-peak

Whole cabin to ourselves

Spectacular views

Longest cable car ride we ever had: 20-minutes

What to see?

We arrived at the D’amour Garden (or Le Jardin D’amour) at Ba Na Hills Mountain Resort. The whole area consist of 9 gardens: Love Garden, Mystery Garden, Legendary Garden, Memory Garden, Heaven Garden, Grape Garden, Thought Garden Suoi Mo Garden and Sacred Garden. It was very foggy once we were up there, and it started to drizzle. It was unfortunate for us not being able to take nice pictures. 

There is a Derby Wine Cellar with a constant temperature of 16 to 20 degrees Celsius for you to explore!

Take a funicular up to the French Village!

Here’s the part where I shall let pictures tell the story.

Once it gets too cold to explore outside, there is a 3-storey amusement park to play! All rides, rock climbing, arcade games and movies are inclusive in the entrance ticket except for wax museum and carnival games. 

29-meters drop & twist tower

21-meters rock climbing wall

Pac-man machine

First dinosaur park in Vietnam

Biggest indoor bumper car floor in Vietnam

5-D movie

We glad that we chose to bike up ourselves instead of joining the tour because there’s no way you can explore everything within the limited time frame! We will definitely come back again in another season for better photoshoot!

Avoid Unnecessary Expenses In Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An is a charming town on the east coast of Central Vietnam. The Ancient Town of Hoi An is recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Site and has become one of the “must-visit” destinations in Vietnam. Unfortunately to say, Hoi An has an attitude of “it’s okay to rip off the foreigners” much pervasive than most Vietnamese cities. Here are some of the things we had taken note of which we think are not worth spending on.  

Famous icon of Hoi An: Lanterns

Food

No doubt you can easily googled a list of popular cafes and restaurants recommended in Ancient Town, but be prepared to fork out two or three times more for a piece Bahn Mi or a bowl of Cau Lau (a local dish only found in Hoi An) where serving portions may be half of the typical size. Try getting your meals along the streets outside of Ancient Town, or best of your home-stay offers free breakfast!

Free breakkie made by our hosts!

Typical make-shift stalls along the street

Most costs about 20,000VND (<USD1) for a bowl of noodles

We did, however, splurge a bit on our last day in White Rose Restaurant which sells only 2 dishes: Bahn Bao Vac (White Rose Dumplings) and fried shrimp wanton. Each dish costs 70,000VND (USD3) which is considered quite an expensive snack in Vietnamese standard.

Bicycle Rental

Hoi An can be easily explored by walking or riding a bicycle (riding motorbike is not recommended as you can’t enter Ancient Town with it and most roads are quite narrow). If you are staying within the Ancient Town, chances are you will have to pay for bicycle rental from the owner of your homestay/guesthouse or from rental shops. However, if you are staying a little out of town, the owners are usually happy to let you use for free.

Parking Fees

From Ancient Town area to beaches, everywhere you will be asked to pay a fee, even for bicycles! Note that you can ride bicycle within the Old Town, and may push your bike if you are not comfortable riding in crowded places. For beaches, skip the main entrance to the beach or you may buy a bottle of drink for free parking.  

You will be stopped before even reaching the beach

i’m not sure if you are willing to pay and see this beach, but we are not….

Floating Lanterns

It is a common sight at Ancient Town to see old ladies selling floating lanterns at night. The gimmick is to make a wish, release the lantern to the river and wait for your wish to come true! While it can be a pretty sight to see all the colourful paper lanterns floating on the river, this is just another way of polluting the water used by the local. And some of these lanterns are being used again by another lady on the sampan scooping them out of the river!

Beautiful sight of paper lanterns floating on the river

Easily scooped up one for photo-taking

Doesn’t it looks like pollution?

Sight-Seeing

To enter most of the attractions in the Ancient Town, you are required to purchase a ticket. Most tourists purchased a ticket with coupons (USD5) which allows you to enter five attractions within 24-hours. To us, it’s not a worthy deal. Crossing the Japanese Covered Bridge is definitely no worth USD1 for us. You can easily cycle around to another street, or you may do so after 6pm where the staff is gone and you can cross for free! 

Japanese Bridge

You will be asked to show ticket, or purchase a ticket to cross over the bridge

However, it’s free at night!

Anyways, we suggest that you should cycle to other islands instead of just staying around the Old Town. 

You might be told that entering the Old Town need to present the ticket, but we weren’t stopped by anyone at the kiosk by passing in and out several times a day.    

Where we stay

We stayed at Beautiful Moon Hoi An Villa (Sky House) which is 15-minutes walk from the town. It is a 3-storey house runs by a young couple who make delicious local meals for breakfast. All rooms are private rooms comes with attached bathroom and TV. The owner, Mr. Sky, would give you his hand-drawn map of Hoi An Town will some recommendation of eateries and shops. 

Most people get to Hoi An from Danang, which is only 1-hour bus ride away. Since we were travelling from the South, we took a 12-hours overnight sleeper bus from Nha Trang to Hoi An.

Explore the best of Mui Ne, Vietnam (for literally free!)

On the southern coastline of Vietnam, there is a little fishing village called Mui Ne. Most of the time there is the wind and a good amount of waves, which makes it the perfect spot for surfers. Mui Ne is just a 4-hours bus ride away from Saigon but it feels like you’re visiting a different country. It’s the place-to-go to escape the hectic big cities.

So, what did we do in Mui Ne…….for free?

Visiting the Red Sand Dune

The red sand dune is a must visit in Mui Ne. It’s a tiny piece of desert in Vietnam, which gives you a whole different view of the country. Just 20-minutes from the town centre, it is a spectacular place to be during sunset. Honestly, there isn’t too much to do around the Red Sand Dunes. However, do prepare yourself as there will be children as well as women who will approach and offer you to rent a plastic sled to slide down the dunes for about 20,000vnd (USD1).

Entrance Fee: None

Strolling barefooted along Fairy Stream

I was skeptical about this thinking that it is probably a tourist trap. We even walked far off from main entrance to avoid being asked for entrance fee. This stream is tucked between the beaches and the fishing village. You will be impressed by the colors and the limestone formations which look like a mini scale of Grand Canyon. Do be careful of local teenagers coming to you trying to be your guide and helping you to take pictures, just politely refused and walk off.  

When you decided to start your long walk at noon

Side entrance to the stream

Only local tourists walk through this entrance

Feeling good to soak our tired feet in this cooling stream

Popped-up stalls along the stream

If you walk through the red sand dune, you can reach fairy stream too!

Entrance Fee: 5,000VND if you enter from main entrance or with a tour

Sightseeing in Fishing Village

A local small school

Wet market

Less than a dollar chicken rice

Entrance Fee: None

Awed at Kite-surfers

Kite-surfing is a big deal in Mui Ne. Locals and travelers all enjoying the wind and waves.There are a lot of kite-surfing shops where you can rent the equipment or pick up the skill from an instructor. However, the prices aren’t cheap.

Chasing Sunrise and Sunset

Sunrise at the beach

Sunset at the fishing village

Hiking up on Random Hill

Yes! We saw a hill at the end of the beach where we were staying…why not hike?

What we didn’t do:

Rent a Motorbike

We were being advised by the locals that the police in Mui Ne often organizes “road block” to stop foreigners riding motorbikes. Even if you do have an International Driving Permit, the police will still find an excuse to make sure you pay some money to them. We had witnessed the scene and glad we heeded their advice. The fine is usually about 200,000vnd (USD8-10). 

Police behind me stopping foreign riders

White Sand Dune

The white sand dune is about 25-kilometers away from town center; too far for us to walk, and no public bus to go there. Besides, it’s just another land with sand.

Take a Tour

A standard half-day tour inclusive of white and red sand dunes, and fairy stream will cost USD5 from most hostels. It sounds reasonably-priced, but you may not get to enjoy each attraction at your own pace, and usually the guide will lure you into tourist traps like quad-biking at white sand dune or paying a fee for fairy stream. Moreover, there is a frequent local bus (no.1) which stops at red sand dune, fairy stream and fishing village which costs only 13,000vnd (USD0.50) per trip!

We were lucky that the local bus stop right outside the resort

Where we stayed?

We stayed at Long Son Mui Ne Campgrounds located on Suoi Nuoc Beach, 15-kilometers north of Mui Ne. The campgrounds have an east facing beach, meaning the place is ideal for sunrise views. It is a secluded yet well-located campground resort for travelers who would like to escape from the hustle and bustle of the main tourists spots. We stayed in a double-tent comes with mattress, pillows and blankets. Over here, you will experience resort living at backpacker’s prices$1 menu, $1 cocktails, free wifi, clean beach and lots of activities. 

Lobby

Common area

Dinning area

Bar

Lockers

Beach double-tent: USD7/night

Chilling area

Getting There

There are many bus companies that run from Saigon to Mui Ne, but we put our trust on The Sinh Tourists to travel around Vietnam. The bus journey is about 4-hours, costing 119,000vnd (USD5) inclusive of a bottle of water and wifi onboard. 

Experiencing the Naadam Festival Without Joining a Tour

Naadam, also known as “the three games of men”, is the biggest traditional festival held in Ulaanbaatar, the Mongolian capital. Each July, men compete in Mongolian jaw-dropping wrestling, spine-tingling horse racing and unbelievably accurate archery in the city’s multipurpose National Sports Stadium. Today, women also participate in the archery games and girls in the horse racing. Through this event, the Mongols prove that they’re man (or woman) enough to be the descendants of their notorious and illustrious hero Genghis Khan. 

Naadam is like Christmas to the Mongolian people. Days before the festival, Ulaanbaatar was buzzing with Naadam fever and reached a bewildering climax. It was a sight to witness everyone dressed in their finest deel (traditional clothing of Mongol tribes), prepares lots of food and arak (fermented mare’s milk) and spends the days out in the sun with friends and family. I am lucky to be able to experience the main event in Ulaanbaatar and a more local one in Kharkhorin.

When is Naadam Festival?

The Festival which held in Ulaanbaator is on the 11th and 12th of July each year. Most businesses in the city close from the 11th to 13th of July, and there will be 5-days of national holiday (11th-15th July) for the locals. The outskirts of Mongolia will be holding their own Naadam Festival events throughout July, although the exact dates usually aren’t confirmed until mid-June or early July.

The regional festivals are usually free of charge, and enable you to get much closer to the action. Different towns and regions will hold their festivals on different dates, so it is advisable to do your homework before travelling out of the Capital. I cam across this website which provides a detailed and updated information on Naadam (and other popular festivals) every year. 

This is peak tourist season in Mongolia so be sure to book your accommodation (especially in Ulaanbaator) well in advance. Some of the most popular guesthouses are fully booked for the whole month of July.

How to get Naadam Tickets

There are a few ways to get the tickets in Ulaanbaatar. Due to the popularity among the tourists and locals, be prepared to pay for a hefty price.

The official price for Naadam. Tourists price is USD25 if you are able to get it yourself

Buying your own tickets

There are 3 places where you can queue up for the tickets: Central Stadium, National Wrestling Palace and Central Cultural Palace box offices. Tickets sale usually start about one-week before the festival (6th and 7th July). If you think you can start queuing from early morning, you are so so so wrong! I started to queue at 9.30pm the previous night before, and yet I still can’t get the tickets (even though it is said that 1 person can only buy 4 tickets)!

I wonder what time did these people come??!!

Totally not dressed for the cold night~~

The queue got longer and longer

Cold, hungry and sleepy~~

The queue got longer from the front ’cause other family members all coming in to “join” the queue

I’m just getting further and further away from the box office )=

The moment when the box office opens, and by then it’s noon!

When we thought it’s reaching us soon……..

With less than 5 people in front and us getting so excited, the policeman suddenly announced that the Naadam tickets were all sold out! After queuing for 17-hours under 15 degrees, this is not what I’ve expected. It has been a long time since I felt such disappointment. Nevertheless, we hurried walked off as other Mongols were raging towards the policemen. 

Buying tickets from a Guesthouse

Most of the guesthouses sell Naadam tickets with a tour package (costs around USD120 – USD180 with transportation and meals). Some of the guesthouses which do sell the tickets only that I known of are: Golden Gobi Guesthouse, Taiga Guesthouse and Sunpath Guesthouse. However, they usually charge a premium price, but it shouldn’t cost more than USD60 per person for a 2-day ticket. You may email a few guesthouses before arriving in Mongolia as there are other travelers who pre-booked the tickets at least a month ahead.   

Buying tickets from Tourist Information Offices

There are a lot of Tourist Information offices in Ulaanbaatar. Similar to guesthouses, they do charge a higher price instead of selling the official ticket price. One of the traveler I met bought her Naadam ticket at post office for USD48 but they only issued her a ticket for opening ceremony. 

Buying tickets from a Scalper

I did not try this but I did hear from locals who mentioned that there are ticket scalpers outside Wrestling Palace before the day of the festival start. The price may vary from USD30 to USD100. However, there is always a risk with buying tickets from scalpers that they may turn out to be fakes, so please beware!

After spending days of asking around for Naadam tickets, my Couchsurfing host managed to get me those tickets from some forum for USD50 just the night before the festival! 

Ta-daaaa!

How to attend for free

You can still enjoy the Naadam Festival without buying a ticket! Only the opening and closing ceremonies, and the wrestling need tickets to enter the stadium. You can watch the archery and horse racing for free! The wrestling finals are aired on a big screen in Chinggis Square, which is fun to watch with the locals. There are also free concerts and fireworks every night at the Square.

Horse parade

There are always something going on for 3 full-day!

Traditional songs & dances

Where to watch

The opening and closing ceremonies, and the wrestling matches are held at the Naadam Stadium. The archery is held just next door to the stadium. The horse racing is located at “khui Doloon Khudag (Хүй долоон худаг) racing field, approximately 40km from Ulaanbaatar. There are free shuttle buses that transport people from the city to the racetrack from Misheel EXPO (Мишээл EXPO) and Dunjingarav (Дүнжингарав) parking lots – check with your hostel or the ‘student police’ for directions. 

What to Expect

Expect to be pushed around and find yourself surrounded with true-mongol-attitudes! The stadium will be absolutely packed and it is basically impossible to move once the ceremony begins. I was sandwiched at the gate for 15-minutes with the policemen stopping entry, and the people from behind keep on pushing. It was quite an experience!

We got different seats so we can’t watch the ceremony together )=

Many of the seats do not have shade, so bring plenty of water and sunscreen if it’s hot. The opening ceremony is spectacular, and features impressive war reenactments, singing and dancing. Unfortunately, the central stage was blocked by a monkey float from where I’m sitting.

It isn’t a good seat after all

I’m amazed by how little time they took to build a ger

Mark from Thailand

The opening ceremony took about one and a half hours, with all the different tribes and community parading around the Stadium. This was my favorite part of the ceremony ’cause the entry and exit points were just next to me! 

After the ceremony is over, the wrestling match began. By then, the stadium will be quite empty (probably it was too hot and people were getting hungry) and security became slack. I managed to walk to photographers’ area and get a good view of the match.

One of the photographers offered to help me took a picture!

Outside the Stadium was a super huge fair with tonnes of food, games, and basically you can find anything to buy. You can even try out traditional costumes and take pictures with nice backdrop for 10,000MNT (USD4)

Less than USD1

A storm is coming but I don’t care!

3,000MNT (USD1) for 5 tries

The archery can be easily found next to the Stadium. There isn’t much seats to watch the archery. Even if you get a seat, you can’t really see the target unless you brought a binoculars.

Found a spot to stand and watched for awhile

Things to Take Note

  • Beware of pickpockets! Make sure to always carry your belongings in front of you as it will be very crowded and people are always pushing around.
  • Look out for drunkards, especially if you are a female and travelling alone.
  • The event is held during the hottest month of the year, so remember to drink up, apply sunscreen and bring a cap/hat/sunglasses
  • Whether you attend the festival in Ulaanbaatar or other provinces, commentary will only be in Mongolian.
  • Wear comfy walking shoes. Traffic in Ulaanbaatar will be chaotic during the festival, so it is best to travel by foot. The Stadium is about 20-minutes walk from Chinggis Square.
  • It is okay to ask locals to move away if you want to take a photo (without them inside your picture), or if they trying to cut in before you.
  • The locals are always happy to pose for your photos in their traditional costumes.
  • Once you are out of the city, there are no road signs directing you to the exact location of the Naadam celebration fields, your driver will have to ask around.

Dates of Naadam festival at different province (2017)

Hope this guide will help to get you prepared and save some money for the upcoming Naadam Festival! 

Northern Mongolia: Lake Khövsgöl

Lake Khövsgöl (Хөвсгөл нуур) is located northwest of Mongolia near the Russian Border. Famously known as “Blue Pearl of Asia “, it is the second-most voluminous freshwater lake in Asia, and holds almost 70% of Mongolia’s fresh water and 0.4% of all the fresh water in the world. Untouched by industry and modern urban life, Lake Khövsgöl’s water is unbelievably clean. This area is paradise for outdoor travelers and there are plenty of room for activities like hiking, birding, fishing, horseback travel and kayaking.

Getting There

The comfort way: There are flights twice a week from Ulaanbaatar to Mörön for about USD100 per way. The journey takes about 90-minutes.

The budget way:  There are buses leaving daily at 0800hrs, 1500hrs and 1800hrs to Mörön (Мөрөн) from Dragon Bus Terminal. The journey will take about 18-hours on paved road and costs 32,000MNT (USD13).

Do note that there is no sleeper bus in Mongolia, so it would be really nice to have someone you comfortable with sitting next to you for such long journey. And there will not be proper toilets along the way! The driver will just stop along the roadside when someone requested to. Also, be prepared for overloaded bus as the driver will pick up random locals along the way and you may find people sitting next to you on the aisle. 

Ice cream!

To get to Lake Khövsgöl, you can share a taxi/van at Mörön to go to Khatgal town where the lake is. The cost is about 15,000~20,000MNT (USD6-USD8) for 2-hours+ drive. I would recommend taking the 1800hrs as it will be the last bus to arrive at Mörön and the drivers waiting they may be more willing to lower their price.

Arriving at Mörön

Quite a dead town

We arrived at about 6am and haggled for about 30-minutes for a good price up to Toilogt Camp. Initially, we were asked to wait till 8am when the next bus will be arriving if not we will have to pay another 10,000MNT (USD4) more. We were okay to pay extra as we were exhausted from the long bus ride. Less than 10-minutes out of Mörön, the driver decided to charge us more because he said going to Toilogt Camp is dirt road hence more petrol will be used. And so, we ended up in the middle of the road for another 45-minutes before someone willing to drive us for 25,000MNT (USD10).

Not sure if it’s a good decision but I definitely not going to overpay my transport

no car passed by at all~

Time for some road shots

After about 3-hours+, we are finally here!

Toilogt Tourist Camp

Accommodation

Upon reaching at Khatgal, you can either stay at the guesthouses in the village or you can ask the driver to bring you all the way to the national park where you are able to see the whole lake. We chose a luxury option of staying at Toilogt Tourist Camp to pamper ourselves. 

It costs us 60,000MNT (USD25) each for one ger by ourselves for one night. If you google online searching for ger camps in Lake Khövsgöl, you will only find a few established ones and this is one of them. In fact, there are actually a few more smaller camps along the lake and they cost much cheaper. So, the next day we moved to another camp which cost us USD10 per night. 

Eat

Most of the tourist camps has their own restaurant whereby you can choose to include meals with the accommodation. I would suggest to stock up your own food to last you long enough because this area is a perfect picnic spot! We made a mistake for not doing that and we ended hiking 6-kilometers to Khatgal town and 6-kilometers back to camp.


Nevertheless, the hike is totally worth it!!

View of Khatgal Town from the top

Activities

You may do fishing (need to get a permit from tourist office in Khatgal) or kayaking (rent from the bigger camps) on the lake. We chose to do horseback riding instead. An hour of horseback riding cost 10,000MNT (USD4) with guide. 

And everywhere here is soooo nice to take pictures with!!