The almost 300-kilometers Annapurna Circuit is challenging but rewarding trek. In 23-days, we trekked all the way from Besi Sahar to Landruck without a guide or porter or any tour agency. On average, we walked about 6-8 hours, crossing 4 different districts namely: Lamjung, Manang, Mustang and Myagdi, and experienced 4 different seasons covering a great sparse of geography. We got to witness people of varying tribes and ethnicity which differ along the trail in every 30km.
Read More: Everything You Need To Know To Trek Annapurna Circuit Independently
A summary of our day-by-day route: 19 April – 12 May 2018
Besi Sahar – Ngadi – Jagat – Bagarchhap – Chame – Upper Pisang – Manang – Acclimatization in Manang – Seeri Khadka – Tilicho Base Camp – Tilicho Lake – Seeri Khadka – Ledar – Thorong High Camp – Muktinath – Marpha – Kalopani – Tatopani – Ghorepani – one more day in Ghorepani – Gurjung – Dovan – Annapurna Base Camp – Chhomrong – Pokhara
Basically our only expenses in the mountains are accommodation, food and drinking water. Here’s a rough breakdown on how much two of us spent over the 23-days trek:
Accommodation: ~4,000 NPR (US$37)
Food: ~55,670 NPR (US$520)
Drinking Water: ~545 NPR (US$5)
Most of the days, we managed to bargain for free accommodation in exchange for having meals (dinner and breakfast) with the hosts, thus our budget were heavily spent more on food.
So, let’s get started!
Day 1: Kathmandu – Besi Sahar (820-meters) – Ngadi (890-meters)
We took a 6 a.m bus from Kathmandu’s Gongabu Bus Park to Besi Sahar (350 NPR/person) where the trek officially begins. The bus ride is supposed to be 6-hours but ended up the whole journey became 8-hours.
We had our first check-in at TIMS check post in Besi Sahar.
Since it was only mid-noon, we decided to start trekking instead of staying at Besi Sahar like most other trekkers. We managed to end our day before sunset after 3.5-hours to Ngadi (12-kilometers).
There is a ACA check post in Simpani.
Expenditures Breakdown:
Accommodation: Hil-ton Guesthouse & Restaurant (Free)
Lunch:
- Dal Baht: 300 NPR
Dinner:
- Potato Momo: 250 NPR
- Egg Fried Rice: 450 NPR
- Small pot of tea: 240 NPR
Day 2: Ngadi (890-meters) – Bahundanda – Ghermu – Jagat (1,300-meters)
We learned to order breakfast after dinner and gave specific timing for the meal to be served. If not, be prepared to wait about 30-45 minutes as Nepalese prepare their meals from scratch. We started our trek by 8.30 a.m and the weather was fabulous!
It took us 2-hours to walk from Ngadi to Bahundanda (6.2-kilometers). We sweat a lot from climbing up the ridge and stairs ascending to 1,310-meters.
At the last lodge in Ghermu, the rainbow lodge, you got a choice to walk the upper trail (ascending path but beautiful) or lower trail (flat road but dusty) to Jagat. We chose the upper trail (red & white) which took us 3-hours to cover 5-kilometers of road.
Expenditures Breakdown:
Accommodation: Tilicho Guesthouse (Free)
Breakfast:
- Oat Porridge: 250 NPR
- Omelette: 250 NPR
- Big pot of Hot water: 240 NPR
- 1 x bottle of coke: 150 NPR
Dinner:
- Dal Baht: 450 NPR
- Veg Fried Potato: 350 NPR
- Small pot of Hot Lemon: 350 NPR
Day 3: Jagat (1,300-meters) – Chamje – Tal – Dharapani – Bagarchhap (2,140-meters)
Today started with a 1.5-hours trek towards Chamje where there is a popular tea house facing the waterfall. There will be an ascend about 130-meters before reaching Chamje village, where you will see a sign leading to Tal.
Tal is 5-kilometers from Chamje which took us about 2.5-hours. Tal is also the first village on the trail where there’s safe water station.
From Tal to Dharapani is about 6.6-kilometers (3.5-hours). There is a check post in Dharapani. We then continued another 3-kilometers and end our day at Bagarchhap.
Expenditures Breakdown:
Accommodation: Eco Holiday (Free)
Breakfast:
- Apple Porridge: 300 NPR
- Banana Muesli: 300 NPR
- Small pot of Hot water: 150 NPR
Lunch:
- Mushroom Soup: 260 NPR
- Bottle of Coke: 205 NPR
- 2 x Safe Water: 80 NPR
Dinner:
- Dal Baht: 470 NPR
- Omelette: 230 NPR
- Potato Soup: 280 NPR
- Milk Tea: 80 NPR
Day 4: Bagarchhap (2,140-meters) – Danaqyu – Timang – Thanchowk – Koto – Chame (2,670m-meters)
From Bagarchhap to Danaqyu is a 20-minutes walk (1.7-kilometers), where you can re-fill your bottles at safe water station. After Danaqyu was a 2-hours with 350-meters steep climb to Timang (2,350-meters).
About 1-hour away (3.4-kilometers) from Timang, we passed by Thanchowk, a charming village where there are two ways to reach Chame: trek trail or road trail. Both path take about the same time of 2-hours.
Chame is a big bazaar compared to other villages. You can stock up snacks and medicines, or get new gears. We stayed at the end of the village opposite the bridge where it’s much quieter.
Expenditures Breakdown:
Accommodation: New Tibet Hotel & Restaurant (Free)
Breakfast:
- Apple Porridge: 330 NPR
- Fried Potato: 300 NPR
- Hot water x 2: 100 NPR
Lunch:
- Veg Momo: 350 NPR
- Bottle of coke: 250 NPR
- 2 x Safe Water: 90 NPR
Dinner:
- Dal Baht: 550 NPR
- Egg Curry: 450 NPR
- Hot Lemon x 2: 180 NPR
- Local Wine: 100 NPR
Day 5: Chame (2,670-meters) – Bhratang – Upper Pisang (3,300-meters)
It was an easy forest trail from Chame to Bhratang (2,800-meters): 6.3-kilometers, 2-hours.
There’s a choice of taking the upper or lower Pisang trail. Lower runs along the road and is much easier, while upper involves a steep 600-meters gain but is good for acclimating and is the more beautiful trek by far, offering magnificent views of the Annapurna peaks. We stayed at the highest lodge in Upper Pisang.
Expenditures Breakdown:
Accommodation: Himalayan Hotel & Restaurant (Free)
Breakfast:
- Boiled Potatoes: 300 NPR
- Muesli with apples & milk: 300 NPR
- Black Tea: 50 NPR
- Hot water: 45 NPR
Lunch:
- Chocolate Donut: 200 NPR
- Onion Soup: 250 NPR
- Masala Tea: 200 NPR
Dinner:
- Dal Baht: 550 NPR
- Egg Noodle Soup: 380 NPR
- Hot Lemon x 2: 180 NPR
Day 6: Upper Pisang (3,300-meters) – Ghyaru – Ngawal – Manang (3,540-meters)
We aimed to cover 20-kilometres today. We decided to go straight to Manang via the villages of Gyaru and Ngawal. It was a continuous ascend till about 3,650-meters, and after Ngawal a slight declination towards Manang.
Ngawal is one of the oldest and the largest villages in the Nyeshyang region. Because of the war-ridden past, the village can be reached only after a steep uphill climb. We stopped here for lunch and contemplating if we still want to continue.
Knowing that from Ngawal to Manang is a relatively flat trail of 9.2-kilometres, we decided to just go for it. It was miserable; we were cold, hungry, tired and the sun was setting earlier than expected.
Expenditures Breakdown:
Accommodation: Hotel Himalayan Singi (Free)
Breakfast:
- Chocolate Pancake: 350 NPR
- Pancake with Honey: 350 NPR
- Small pot of Hot water: 200 NPR
Lunch:
- Chicken Fried Noodle: 450 NPR
- Veg Noodle Soup: 380 NPR
Dinner:
- Chicken Noodle Soup x 2: 760 NPR
- Hot Lemon: 90 NPR
- Apple Tea: 90 NPR
Day 7: Acclimatization in Manang (3,540-meters)
It was a rest day in Manang for us to acclimate to the altitude. This is highly recommended as many people may start to feel the altitude sickness at this point. We slept in, did a short side trek up to Gangapurna Glacier Viewpoint, stock-up some food supplies and had a good meal. If you can afford to spend more time around, there are many beautiful lakes and caves to explore around Manang.
There is a free lecture everyday at 3 p.m at Manang’s clinic conducted by volunteered-doctors from around the globe. This lecture helps you to understand more about altitude sickness; symptoms, how to prevent, and what to do if you have it.
Accommodation: Hotel Himalayan Singi (Free)
Expenditures Breakdown:
Breakfast:
- French Toast: 290 NPR
- Cheese Toast: 260 NPR
- Hot water x 2: 80 NPR
Lunch:
- Honey Hot Lemon: 120 NPR
- Seabuckthorn Juice: 120 NPR
- Tuna Fried Rice: 400 NPR
- Egg Burger: 550 NPR
- Rosti: 300 NPR
Dinner:
- Chicken Noodle Soup: 380 NPR
- Minestrone Soup: 370 NPR
Day 8: Manang (3,540-meters) – Gunsang – Sheree Kharka (4,076-meters)
Today was our worst day on trail because we got so lost!
Our planned route was supposed to be Manang – Khangsar – Sheree Kharka – Tilicho Base Camp. But instead, we took a wrong exit at Manang, and went all the way to further Gunsang before realizing we were on wrong trail. If we were to continue this trail, it meant that we have to give up going to Tilicho Lake. Eventually, we made a super steep ascend to be back on track to Sheree Kharka. It took us almost 5-hours on this trail to reach Sheree Kharka, and we decided to call it for the day.
Note: Remember to refill your bottles and register at ACA checkpoint before leaving Manang.
Thinking back, we could have walked back to Manang, stay another night there and start the correct trail to Khangsar the following day.
Expenditures Breakdown:
Accommodation: Hotel Tilicho Peak & Restaurant (Free)
Breakfast:
- Muesli with Milk: 300 NPR
- Potato Soup: 300 NPR
- Small pot of Hot water: 250 NPR
Dinner:
- Chicken Noodle Soup: 355 NPR
- Tomato Noodle Soup: 355 NPR
- Hot Lemon: 100 NPR
Day 9: Sheree Kharka (4,076-meters) – Tilicho Base Camp (4,150-meters)
Many said this is the most dangerous part due to narrow steep path and common rocks fall/landslide. This is the reason why many trekkers gave Tilicho Lake a miss and continue to Thorong La Pass straight. It is highly recommended to do this trail early morning as chances of rocks falling is higher when the ground got heated up.
We deposited our backpack at the lodge in Sheree Kharka and only brought what is needed for 2 days. You don’t need to carry your full load since you will have to pass by Sheree Kharka on the way back. The trail to Tilicho Base Camp is 4.5-kilometres, took us about 2.5-hours.
Looking back at these photos, I can’t possibly imagine how we managed to cross this trail at that moment.
Expenditures Breakdown:
Accommodation: New Tilicho Base Camp & Restaurant (Free)
Breakfast:
- Plain Omelette: 295 NPR
- Fried Rice: 340 NPR
- Hot water x 2: 100 NPR
Lunch:
- Fried Rice: 365 NPR
- Hot Lemon x 2: 220 NPR
Dinner:
- Fried Potato: 400 NPR
- Fried Noodles: 475 NPR
- Hot Lemon x 2: 220 NPR
Day 10: Tilicho Base Camp (4,150-meters) – Tilicho Lake (4,919-meters) – Sheree Kharka (4,076-meters)
We kicked off before 6 a.m to begin a tough 800-meters ascend. At the altitude of 4,919-meters, we both experienced slight headaches at the lake. We stayed for less than 1-hour before descending back to base camp. We took a light brunch and a short nap, and head back down to Sheree Kharka for overnight.
Ascend to Tilicho Lake: 3.5-hours
Descend to Base Camp: 2-hours
From the blue-roofed houses, you can see the trail that we have to backtrack to Sheree Kharka.
Expenditures Breakdown:
Accommodation: Hotel Tilicho Peak & Restaurant (Free)
Lunch:
- Fried Potato: 400 NPR
- Hot Lemon x 2: 220 NPR
Dinner:
- French Fries: 420 NPR
- Veg Soup: 325 NPR
- Hot Lemon x 2: 220 NPR
Day 11: Sheree Kharka (4,076-meters) – Yak Kharka – Churi Ledar (4,200-meters)
It snowed today!
We descended by the same trail we had ascended on Day 9. It was definitely much more easier and took us only 2-hours to the crossroads where we can continue to Yak Kharka. It was a 2-hours up and down trail towards Yak Kharka followed by a 40-minutes gradual ascend under the snow to Churi Ledar.
If you do not have any problems with altitude related symptoms, we recommend to stay over at Churi Ledar (4,200-meters) as it makes it easier to go on Thorong High Camp (4,850-meters) the next day.
If you starting to feel unwell, stay at Yak Kharka (4,035-meters), and stop again Thorong Phedi (4,450-meters) for another night before heading to Thorong High Camp.
Expenditures Breakdown:
Accommodation: Hotel Churi Ledar (Free)
Breakfast:
- Veg Soup: 320 NPR
- Potato Soup: 300 NPR
- Hot water x 2: 100 NPR
Lunch:
- Fried Rice: 300 NPR
- Potato Soup: 300 NPR
Dinner:
- Egg Fried Rice: 370 NPR
- Veg Soup: 310 NPR
- Apple Fritters: 390 NPR
- Hot water x 2: 90 NPR
Day 12: Churi Ledar (4,200-meters) – Thorong Phedi – Thorong High Camp (4,850-meters)
We are getting closer to Thorong-la pass!
From Churi Ledar to Thorong Phedi is not an easy trail. Not only that you have to overcome your body condition with this high altitude, there is a “danger zone” of frequent falling rocks which you need to be cautioned too!
There are two options to cross the river: ascend via the suspension bridge, or continued the main trail to descend till you saw a wooden bridge. The latter option is more dangerous with falling rocks and will end up with a steep climb up the slope.
About 20-minutes after the “landslide zone”, the lodges in Thorong Phedi (4,550-meters) come in view. From Thorong Phedi to Thorong High Camp is 45-degree upwards.
The lodges in High Camp are owned by one landlord, thus there’s no way to get free room here. Behind the lodge is a long steep ridge with an awesome view at the top.
Expenditures Breakdown:
Accommodation: Thorong High Camp & Restaurant (500 NPR/Room/Night)
Breakfast:
- Noodle Soup x 2: 640 NPR
- Hot water x 2: 100 NPR
Lunch:
- Baked Macaroni Tuna: 740 NPR
- Hot Lemon: 100 NPR
Dinner:
- Margarita Pizza: 630 NPR
- Potato Soup: 330 NPR
Day 13: Thorong High Camp (4,850-meters) – Thorong-la Pass (5,416-meters) – Muktinath (3,800-meters)
Today is the day!
We only started our trek at 6 a.m. whereas most trekkers probably started as early as 4 a.m., making us the last few to ascend. It took us almost 4-hours to complete this freezing and breathless trail. Along the way, there are only 2 tea houses: one at around 5,000-meters and another one at Thorong-la pass managed by Gurkha.
Once you hit snowy ground, follow yellow-top poles to be on track.
